Sophia Kah (Q9185)

The Sophia Kah website includes a section called "Kah Girls," which essentially features a selection of bold-face beauties—Keira Knightley, Ruth Wilson, Florence Welch—wearing Ana Teixeira de Sousa's camera-friendly dresses. The London-based designer showed off a portfolio of her girls during a walk-through of her collection, too, suggesting her excitement over increased exposure. But really, Teixeira de Sousa's label has far broader appeal than red carpet, primarily because she has managed to develop a full collection from a few basic, risk-free principles. First, she used the idea of corsetry—in grosgrain rather than boning—to trace the torso in the most flattering way. A mere glimpse at the dresses makes you want to stand straighter; and yet, she's made sure that taut stomachs aren't a prerequisite. Second, for all the pretty fabrics—French lace, brocade, tulle—she's kept the color scheme intriguingly baroque (claret, chartreuse, teal) and edged up a few looks with leather. Third—and this is key for women who travel—the lace dresses make a big impact without taking up much space in a suitcase; the globe-trotting designer mentioned being sensitive to this concern.When Teixeira de Sousa presented her mood board collaged with a mash-up of Italian palazzos and Marlene Dietrich images, the Sophia Kah positioning jelled: sumptuous with a certain femme fatale streak. Such focus can easily seduce, even if the line could benefit from broadening out just slightly. (And a leather jacket with lace inserts hinted that it can.) Those fingerless, lace opera gloves are being produced; they're no mere styling trick. For the meantime, they suffice as Teixeira de Sousa's sole accessory and could very well become a signature—especially if enough Kah Girls start wearing them.