Stine Goya (Q9224)
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Stine Goya is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Stine Goya |
Stine Goya is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Stine Goya was working with the theme of duality when designing her pre-fall collection, yet it is the power of opposites that really comes through, as when tiny embroidered flowers are scattered on khaki carpenter pants, or smocking is applied to shirting rather than a more traditionally feminine fabric. The house’s signature florals appear on silky printed pieces and are woven into a multicolor jacquard in standard silhouettes. Newsier is a balletic dress with a maillot-like knit top and a fuller skirt of a lighter fabric, and a black-on-black appliqué on a festive blouse. There were many enticing top options in this lineup, including a fitted, caviar-beaded corset-y number in denim that can be dressed up or down.
11 December 2024
Stine Goya is a Copenhagen Fashion Week OG so it was a surprise not to see the brand’s name on the official calendar. “I think it is time to rethink a little bit,” said the designer, “and then of course we are also doing this big art curation projectopening this fall in Jutland at the [Kunsten Museum of Modern Art], which is taking a lot of our time, and we think it’s so fun to get into the whole art world just for a change. It feels quite good to take a little break so that I can be a bit more personal.”Visitors to the brand’s pink-walled offices were welcomed by a fantastical tablescape. On a whimsically painted tablecloth were plates of lemons, baguettes, bow-tied candle sticks, and hand-painted matchboxes. As the team was discussing their “woman,” Goya explained, “we started talking about how she’s personalizing her everyday life, the way she’s doing her table setting with matchboxes that she’s painting herself and how she’s a collector.” The idea of customizing is a timely one but not pushed much further than using unmatched buttons on a jacket; while a novelty cardigan festooned with matchbooks and candles (one with a 3D flame) that read more twee than cute. The larger issue here might be that this “character” being conjured is generic, in comparison to Goya herself, at a time when things personal (style, experiences, etc.) are increasingly valued.Goya fans will be happy to see the brand’s checkerboard knits back, and this time they are delightfully fluffy. The peplums the designer is fond of appear on a micro-pleated set that has boho appeal. The mimosa-colored suit was cheery. Most directional was a cinched waisted brown leather jacket with a strong shoulder line. Then came the bows; a blue suit with black bows was certainly smart, but it was styled in the lookbook (featuring localartistand It girl Klara Kristen) with a matching bow bag that’s similar to others seen elsewhere. It feels like there are too many cooks in the kitchen who are intent on following the market’s latest trend recipes instead of serving up the house specialties.
14 August 2024
“We’re trying to put some new life into some of the classics of Goya,” Stine Goya said of her 2025 resort collection. One of those beloved standbys is a padded bomber with a watercolor floral print (developed in-house) that features beaded stamens. The same textile is used for a sleeveless A-line shift here that can be layered over a long-sleeved top when the temperature drops. All-over beading is applied to easy separates, like a hoodie, and on a more straightforward evening frock. A rich merlot was chosen to update the brand’s go-to pantsuit.In a nine look campaign, the denim feels like an outlier. The piece that screams Goya is a turtleneck dress featuring a lush, expressionist portrait of the designer and her husband Thomas Hertz in the green yard of their summer house. This motif builds on the story of home and intimacy that the brand has been telling with recent shows set on the street where Goya lives and in her offices. As the print is based on a work in oil, it has a painting-like dimensionality, which is also on theme. The designer is working on an installation and curation of the collection at the Kunsten Museum of Modern Art in Jutland, in the North of Denmark, that’s set to open in November, around the time that this collection will be delivered.
21 May 2024
After bringing us to her Copenhagen home last season with a show held on the charming cobbled street on which she lives, Stine Goya opted to give us insight into her work life this time around. She presented her fall 2024 collection inside the brand’s atelier.The designer commissioned British-born, Copenhagen-based artist David Risley to paint portraits of her team, from senior print designer Blanca to pattern maker Roberto. The resulting artworks were hung on the studio walls, ensuring that those working behind-the-scenes were front of mind (later Goya’s team came out for a bow, dressed in brightly-colored shirts).Goya used Risley’s work as a starting point for the collection, even transposing the artist’s painting of the brand’s signature clog—inspired by Delacroix’sWomen of Algiers—onto a tunic dress. Hand-drawn prints of the staircase leading up to the atelier and the table in the showroom also made their way into the collection, providing a very literal take on the theme.The designer reiterated her interest in color with a voiceover at the start of the show, which saw her reading out her manifesto. “Colors have always been at the core of my creativity,” she said. “They define me as a designer and, in many ways, as a person.” While Goya may be best known for her use of pastel shades, this season featured a moodier palette, from ochre red to chocolate brown—perhaps a sign of evolution as the brand expands globally.Like many contemporary designers, Goya is increasingly focused on creating a full wardrobe for her customers, from denim to tailoring. The most successful pieces offered subtle twists on classic staples: a structured two-in-one blazer and shirt, and a pinstripe skirt with a floral print peeking through.For Stine Goya’s core customer base, the checkerboard knits, jacquards, and sequins are likely to appeal. Retaining that brand DNA will be crucial as the designer—and her atelier—moves forward.
31 January 2024
Portrait of an Explorer, the title of Stine Goya’s pre-fall lineup, might suggest a historical inspiration, but the designer’s focus is actually more personal. “We’re talking about how you as a person explore your sights inside, how you can be super strong-minded and you can also be resilient or emotionally fragile—all of those parts of your personality,” she said on a call. What it all boils down to is a collection of looks that speak to different moods and occasions.Goya has always had an eye for color, and she employs it on eye-catching solid separates that can easily be mixed into an existing wardrobe. Pearl fastenings were the designer’s fascination last season; hardware is the focus this season. A curve of metal tubing stamped with the brand logo attached to the collar of a suit jacket doubles as a kind of jewelry, as does a golden belt that wraps around a persimmon coat. Metal rings are used to create a pull-through effect on a draped jersey cocktail dress as well as on bags. Casual curved-leg jeans are perfect for pairing with the brand’s Hailey Bieber–approved checkerboard sweater, now offered as a peach-and-mocha cardigan.Pre-fall’s news is a photo-print poppy; its stamens bedazzled on a sporty quilted bomber. Goya has largely moved away from her hand-created motifs, so it was nice to see an irregular side stripe appear as if drawn onto a pair of pajama pants. As this Copenhagen brand has gone global, it’s become dressier and more polished, but that small nostalgic touch delivers on the perfectly imperfect boho charm and hop-on-a-bike ease that is also part of the brand’s DNA.
21 November 2023
Expansion is on the agenda chez Stine Goya, and in the course of a couple years the company has opened new offices and a shop in London. Seemingly in parallel, the offering has come to feel more dressy, more in keeping with a big-city vibe than the more casual cool of Copenhagen, but for spring 2024 the designer shifted her focus back to Denmark with a collection called Homecoming.There’s no set definition of “home.” It can be a place, or even a feeling, Goya noted in an interview. She considered the idea from a drone’s viewpoint as well as from up-close, inviting people to the apple tree-lined street on which she lives. All the neighbors agreed to using their enclave for the undertaking, and there were faces pressed against windows watching the show from the comfort of their own abodes.The set design consisted of a long series of made-for-Instagram tables, laid with clothes, cutlery, and china on which sat jellied dishes, flowers, and loaves of bread. This was Goya’s literal take on the idea of Homecoming, and to drive home the message she brought along two old friends, Helena Christensen and Camilla Staerk, to walk the show.In terms of design, Goya didn’t abandon her roots, but she didn’t reissue vintage pieces or otherwise go back deep into prints. The only checkerboard sweaters were seen on members of the audience. There were some wonderful ombre denims, and the use of print on sportier separates was smart and fun, as was the neon tailoring. Strap and button details were recurring techniques.If only Goya had leaned in here and featured the more casual but polished pieces that would work for the school run or having a drink with a neighbor after the kids were tucked in. After all, the idyllic-looking (life)style the designer enjoys at home is sure to be draw for people in the markets the company might expand into. Nevertheless there were plenty of garments to raise a glass to here.
10 August 2023
The relevance of the Costume Institute’s 2016 exhibition “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” grows every time we cross a new technological threshold. This year AI and ChatGPT are constant topics of conversation, including at Stine Goya, the Danish brand that was first known for hand-drawn prints. The designer and her team decided to change things up for their Artificial Infatuation resort collection. “Sometimes when there’s something that feels alien to you, the best thing is actually just to go into it,” said Goya on a call.The press release was generated by ChatGPT and the ethereal prints were created using a tool called DALL-E, along with some human intervention. The prints take their names from the language that was used to achieve them, descriptive phrases like “smokey rose underwater,” “flowers covered in glitter in a dark room,” and “flowers in fast motion.” One motif used on a knit sweater resembles tie-dye; others, like a rose carefully placed on a slip dress and an abstract pattern on a parka, relate to Goya’s past work.For some time now, the brand has been as much about sparkle as it is about print and color. This is partly due to the company’s expansion, but also related to the season. There are lots of dress-up options here, including a gold flower dress, an iteration of a red one from a few seasons ago, and lots of slim beaded columns. A black pantsuit with an abstract metallic logo print looked most distinctive, and the pieces could easily be worn as separates. The party mood extended into accessories, which have become more of a focus as the brand grows. Black boots with cascading pendant beads and a bag with a fringed diamante handle added a disco vibe.Goya explained that she wanted to zero in both on the dressier, more intricately worked pieces and the more casual ones; hence the double-waisted denim. It’s unclear where a beaded hoodie falls on that spectrum, but no algorithm was needed to determine that a royal blue double-breasted blazer with a teddy-like texture paired with a generously cut pair of cargo pants in a pale almond color were Goya all the way.
31 May 2023
Before there wasFrozenthere was Hans Christian Andersen’sSnow Queen, the starting point for Stine Goya’s fall collection. “I was just really inspired by his whole snow universe and the way he’s describing this lake that is crystallizing and the way he was also so ahead of his time [as] the female characters, especially in this story, were the brave ones, the strong ones, the heroines.” If only fashion headhunters would place more female designers in leading roles….In any case, this woman-led brand is changing with the times and has ambitious plans for expansion. No longer are Goya’s hand-drawn prints the main plot line of her collections. For fall they were used full-scale mostly on parkas, while a single flower was isolated on the opening look, a statement-making coat. Filling in the spaces once occupied by prints were patterned jacquards, metallics, and sequin embroideries, like the bejeweled “snowflakes” that showed up on faux furs, and fell in orderly fashion down the sides of pants. The designer is smartly sticking by her signature—and Hailey Bieber-approved—checkerboard sweater.Expanding on the snow theme, Goya was more generally inspired by famous ski resorts, like Aspen, and created looks for sport and après ski. The active looks, like a slope-ready close-to-the-body jumpsuit, were some of the strongest because Goya found ways to make them her own. Their counterparts were diamanté pieces, including some blingy slingbacks that veered into Tom Ford for Gucci territory. Liquid silk pants were all Goya, however, and the designer took her bow wearing a pair.On the runway were a number of clear glass columns filled with what looked like ice-blue water that crystallized as the show progressed. Goya replicated this home-science experiment on a few pieces in the collection. There was a snow queen dress worn by a model with “iced” eyelashes. A handbag was similarly treated. Goya isn’t the only one to mourn the recent lack of snow, which is perhaps an effect of global warming; one of Demna’s recent collections for Balenciaga was inspired by the lack of the stuff. “I just really wanted to honor the cold and the icy winters,” Goya said.
1 February 2023
The Copenhagen designer Stine Goya recently opened a showroom and store in London and is planning further expansion soon. The result is not only that Goya’s teams are bigger, they are also more multicultural, which is reflected in the pre-fall collection.There are several Spaniards on the design team, and research for this season included group viewings and dissections of Pedro Almovódar’s films. Happily the results of this research were not literal but expansive. Prints are the mainstay of the brand and what looks like a marbled pattern is actually a riff on the director’s photographs of light reflected through Murano glass vases. This motif was applied to fluid fabrics as well as to a heavy cotton moto/mini combo that definitely had Penélope Cruz vibes. A black and white splatter pattern was derived from a scene inVicky Cristina Barcelonain which the actress and Almovódar muse throws paint at a wall.Goya continued to expand her offering of saturated solids, this time taking her palette in a warmer, even fiery direction, while paying attention to texture. This is a logical and practical extension of the designer’s work that is meeting with much success. Elsewhere, she has yet to fully untangle the sporty/dressy balance of the line. A pair of taffeta shorts in this collection was shown with a sort of industrial shirt as well as a puffy, Empire-line blouse. It’s nice to have options, but perhaps even better to commit to a vibe rather than hedging bets.
5 December 2022
The dismantling of Roe vs. Wade must be especially baffling to Scandinavians, who enjoy universal healthcare and expose advanced views on feminism. With “what is happening in the US now,” said Stine Goya post-show, “I think it’s important to remember that we still have far to go with women’s rights, I think [this collection] was really about finding the strength inside women who actually [could say] what they wanted to do, so the inspiration is the Riot Grrls” of the early ’90s.The designer and her team channeled the spirit of these organizers and activists rather than their often grunge style. Goya’s women are increasingly dressed up to go out and show off; one sparkling mesh slip dress left almost nothing to the imagination. A beaded tunic and pants in white had a sophisticated maturity that some of the other almost “girly” frocks lacked. The predominance of party dresses is in part to meet the demands of the British market. Having established a separate office in London, the brand will open a flagship there this September.Goya took her bow in a peak Copencore look: long button-down shirt with sequined pants and sneakers. It was her tailoring that felt most directional here, be it a pink beaded windbreaker and pants set, or a pantsuit (with cargo-style trousers) in one of Goya’s self-designed prints. The show opened with a series of solid colored looks, which is in keeping with a slight movement away from the prints that have long dominated the scene in the Danish capital.Designed by the architectural firm Spacon & X, the show’s set consisted of sand pillars, set on hidden vibrating platforms, that collapsed during the show to reveal pink powder. “We wanted [the set] to inspire conversation,” said Goya, the main message was “to break down barriers.” What better way to do so than with some grrrl power?
10 August 2022