Tadashi Shoji (Q9280)
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Tadashi Shoji is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Tadashi Shoji |
Tadashi Shoji is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Tadashi Shoji wants his clients to find the warrior within. Since the beginning of the pandemic, designers have shown renewed interest in the concept of clothing as a means of defense, and Shoji is no exception. His fall lineup was dedicated to the idea of female strength of the valiant variety. Glitz is Shoji’s specialty, but lockdown limitations allowed him to consider fashion with a greater purpose. “I think everyone could use an extra layer of protection right now,” he said via Zoom. “Something that makes women feel powerful and strong, and is almost like a layer of armor.”Shoji’s high fantasy was a mix of medieval motifs—suits of armor and empire waists galore—and dystopian imagery: models standing atop ruins and rubble courtesy of fine art photographer Franz Szony, who lent his talents to the season’s look book. Pinned to Shoji’s mood board was a snap of the ornate armor garniture of George Clifford, Third Earl of Cumberland, its black and gold fleur-de-lis and Tudor rose pattern unabashedly pretty. Some of that finery made its way onto the garments, but despite the spectacle of their presentation, the majority of the clothes were straightforward. Cocktail dresses in bouclé or lace and cowl-neck jumpsuits require little explanation, but Shoji upgraded these classics by working with a new set of materials created with comfort in mind. “It’s not about dressing up for a photo shoot. Anything women wear has to be comfortable,” he said. “People aren’t going out to galas, but they still have smaller special events.”It’s unlikely those in search of an occasion gown or frock fit for a socially distanced party will worry much about a collection’s intent. Meaning gets lost once clothes are on the rack; those gold lamé jersey dresses could easily register as a moment of disco redux instead of an interpretation of chain mail. Still, Shoji’s most inventive offerings embraced the season’s theme fully. Bronze gowns with an armor motif woven into the brocade and oversized puff sleeves looked powerful, while tea-length jacquard dresses worn with heeled combat boots had a gothic flair. Bejeweled masks that covered the models’ faces added to the effect, but even without the COVID-era add-ons, these were the pieces worth fighting for.
14 February 2021
Tadashi Shoji’s spring 2021 collection was conceived during lockdown. It was at a time when there were fewer people and fewer cars, and in their place more flowers and more wild animals. Shoji decided to celebrate nature, along with hope this season. The dresses were made to mimic the hues of flowers in uplifting pinks and reds. A body-skimming red number with exaggerated ruffled sleeves was a standout.While it’s nice to look forward and imagine a world in which we can return to going-out and dressing up, in this stay-at-home moment, it pays to have something Zoom-worthy. One contender here was a floral print shift dress with a ruffle that stretched from waist to hem, another featured a neat boat neck cut. It’s hard to imagine attending cocktail parties in these pieces right now, but in the meantime they’ll make a big waist-up impact on a computer call.
16 September 2020
Tadashji Shoji tapped into the history of the Mongolian empire between the 13th and 15th centuries for his fall 2020 collection. “It is the East meeting the West,” he said backstage. “It was a revelation for me.” Shoji further emphasized the concept of East-meets-West in the conversation. After all, it has been the Japanese-American designer’s signature to combine the two regions. In this collection, the best pieces were the ones that took those motifs, such as the opening look: a dress with the skirt beaded in the pattern of Mongolian geometric tiles in turquoise and royal blues. The Afghan coats were also standouts: They were composed of brocades and, for a modern jolt, a faux leopard print fur that became the lining and the cuffs.One stellar look was worn by Shoji himself. The 72-year-old designer walked out to take a bow in a custom-made tracksuit with dress shoes. The brocade track jacket played off the sapphire and navy blues that appeared throughout the collection. (He paired that piece with a black turtleneck.) His velour track pants were in a shade of blue that was so vibrant, it felt like it came out of a fairytale. Does Shoji make these for women? He should.
7 February 2020
The choice between trends and tradition is one many brides have to face. Sure, there are scores of white dresses out there, but most of them fit neatly into one of those two categories. As a response to the divide, Tadashi Shoji attempted to bridge the gap with his Fall 2020 collection. That meant gowns with familiar silhouettes and look-at-me details that could be dressed up or down depending on a bride’s preference.Shoji’s notes were heavy on buzzwords likeindividualityandpersonality, but he didn’t end up straying far from convention. Elements like satin jacquard and Watteau pleats have been bridal standards for decades, but he added modern touches like statement capes and polished stone embellishments for good measure.Extra attention was given to tailoring, particularly in the jumpsuits and minidresses, which looked especially modern this season. The simpler silhouettes were compelling, but those in search of glitter and embroidery will have plenty of glam options. The hashtag #TadashiShojiBridal is already brimming with images of brides who’ve embraced his love of bling, tulle, and fantasy.
7 October 2019
“It’s ‘Once Upon a Time in Japan,’” Tadashi Shoji announced backstage at his show today. Kimonos and traditional lace techniques were central to his story this season. One translation of the former came in a long, clingy black jersey dress with red piping down its décolletage. Two slits were cut at the waist, which was bisected by a bow. It was risqué, but striking. The shorter pale pink incarnation that followed, which was more modest, did not make such an impact.Shoji was at his elegant best working with longer silhouettes. The lacework and prints sometimes made the shorter dresses look busy. The show’s most eye-catching number was a blue off-the-shoulder dress based on traditional lace techniques. Shoji noted that typically, the lace is all made by hand, but that wasn’t the case here. Nonetheless, it was a loving ode to the Japanese culture.
5 September 2019
The “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mantra has served Tadashi Shoji well. Most seasons, the designer builds on this label’s signature pieces, offering tweaks on the looks that have come to define his namesake brand. Shoji’s lacy eveningwear and colorful cocktail dresses are consistently worn by celebrities and women in search of fail-safe looks for special occasions, but even successful formulas can benefit from an update. Resort saw Shoji ditch the Chantilly in favor of polka dots, clean lines, and a graphic take on sequins.The change was refreshing and gave a hint at what Shoji could do when freed from expectations. Column gowns with ruffles have become standard, but in black-and-white brocade they managed to excite. Cigarette pants worn with a polka-dot top with an extended sash were an appealing take on evening separates, and hot pink chevron added a preppy feel to floor-grazing halter dresses. There were moments when Shoji couldn’t resist working in a few of his old favorites—a maroon lace number with cap sleeves would have fit right in with his jewel-toned Fall collection, and the tiered tulle segment felt like a retread. Sandwiched between the fresher looks those pieces felt out of place, especially once the collection’s high points, a series of striped sequined gowns with strategic cutouts, came into view.
6 June 2019
As weddings have ballooned into mammoth events, designers have responded with gowns that are bigger and bolder too. The lavishness of today’s wedding celebrations means bridal is booming, but you can create a fantasy without going completely bombastic. For his Spring 2020 presentation, Tadashi Shoji looked to otherworldly inspirations—mystical valleys, enchanted forests, and the like—for a collection that felt down-to-earth. The skill of Shoji’s lacework and embroidery was present here, but he showed restraint where the details were concerned. Only a few pieces got the added sparkle of pearl beading along the bodice or satin flowers dotting the neckline.Without his usual glitz, the visual interest came in the form of less-expected silhouettes and touches of transparency. A fishtail gown with tiers of tulle seemed tailor-made for the extroverted bride while midriff-baring crop tops offered a sexier vibe for beach weddings. A few shoulder-baring pieces with polka-dotted lace and voluminous skirts channeled the ’80s romanticism of Laura Ashley, a concept Shoji could have pushed even further. Elsewhere, his nude slip dresses and flowing veil-cape hybrids looked as alluring as ever.
12 April 2019
Tadashi Shoji noted that he had been traveling through Southeast Asia recently, and this time, he took monks’ robes with him for inspiration. That sort of draping style was evident throughout his Fall collection in the form of off-the-shoulder dresses that had large swathes of fabric extending across the chest. Those jewel-tone pieces were pretty, but the best looks were lace and body-skimming. A black dress with a lace mesh bodice and floral embroidery cascading down the torso really showed Shoji’s craftsmanship, as did its V-shaped top and pant incarnation. Another standout was a modest long-sleeved embroidered black lace dress with an embedded corset. Still, there were moments when the lace felt excessive, especially when mixed with other fabrics, like a dress with a tiered tulle skirt in oranges and deep purple.There has been a lot of talk about size in the industry lately—pop star Bebe Rexha recently tweeted that she couldn’t find a designer to dress her at a size eight for the Grammys—and Shoji’s show was refreshingly size-inclusive. The casting included curvy model Marquita Pring, who gave a figure-hugging red dress some well-deserved star power. It was a megawatt look that could have easily been seen on the red carpet.
7 February 2019
After an intergalactic-themed Spring show, Tadashi Shoji’s Pre-Fall collection headed back to earth with a trip into a night garden. Home to balmy hot-house flowers and romantic intrigue, the concept fit with Shoji’s brand of high-drama eveningwear and allowed the designer a chance to revisit with some of his favorite elements. All the lace, sequins, and intricate embroidery one expects from the label were on display, but amid the familiar, he added in a new set of ideas. A jersey knit gown with a botanical brocade print and asymmetrical neckline started things on a vibrant note. Followed by a ruffled minidress featuring the same pattern and a voluminous red caftan, the lush color palette and horticultural references kept things interesting.Subdued gowns like the black and white column dress covered in floral appliqué and a straightforward gray lace number were pretty albeit staid. The collection came to life when Shoji embraced the exuberance of his theme either through a literal interpretation of flowers or by experimenting with saturated color. A crimson dress with an ombré fade to fuchsia is guaranteed to win over his fans, especially considering its layers of tulle ruffles. Shimmering orchids in shades of purple aren’t bad either, even if they won’t excite everyone. Shoji didn’t push boundaries here, but his punchy creations should fare well considering his clientele is always in search of that next party dress.
5 December 2018