Teatum Jones (Q9294)

In both its laws and social attitude, Scotland is ranked as one of Europe’s most protective and tolerant nations for lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and intersex citizens. Before their show today, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones presented a stirring short film in which some of these citizens discussed how that atmosphere of tolerance allowed them to freely flower. One young man said he relishes the license to not “let anybody tell who you should be and what you should look like.” Another spoke of embracing “the idea that we are all the same and we are all different and that that is not contradictory.” Add in an Annie Lennox-accented mix ofTrainspotting-era techno, house, and garage, and it all made for an inspiring atmosphere.The designers ofTeatum Jonesaren’t Scottish. In fact, they hail from the nation for which Scots, historically and quite possibly justifiably, sometimes display minimal tolerance: England. The Sassenach winners of the 2015/2016 Womenswear International Woolmark Prize proceeded to put out a colorful and attractive collection which played a botanical print inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh paintings against a graphic inspired by club night strafes of laser. A Mondrian-hued, Basquiat-touched pattern came hand-painted by artist Tom Leamon on backpacks, shorts, jackets, and skirts in the last movement of the show. Deep-V backed, lace-fringed silk slip dresses sometimes worn above softly tapered pants were paired against staid, Carolina Herrera-esque cinched white shirting. Leather-paneled bodice dresses counterpointed against punchy floral fil coupes.Winning the Woolmark enabled the designers to insert their first-ever menswear looks into this collection: The resulting floral fishtail parkas and stitch-paneled varsity bombers that looked to have a canvassed shoulder signaled a winning addition to the London’s menswear cacophony. Lots to like here.