The Garment (Q9313)
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The Garment is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | The Garment |
The Garment is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Based on the evidence of the spring show and this pre-fall collection, The Garment is coming into its own. The Copenhagen-based label was founded in 2020 by industry veteran Charlotte Eskildsen, who enlisted Sophia Roe’s help at the start. The influencer left after the spring 2024 show, and the designer’s since been flying solo but in good company: Members of the Danish royal family have been spotted at some of the shows.Speaking of the spring2024 collection, the bow details from it were transferred over to the backs of tops and jackets for pre-fall, much as the flowy organza tops that opened spring’s show were abbreviated here. Suffice it to say that Eskildsen takes an evolutionary approach to design. “It’s becoming a touchpoint for me to create something that I feel will last longer,” she said on a call. “I’m not that focused on what the new thing is…. I feel it’s time to carry on [things] that you paid a lot of effort into developing.”The simplicity and definitiveness of the brand name suggest a focus on reimagined wardrobe pieces. (Eskildsen’s other B Corp–certified brand, founded in 2002, is called Designers Remix.) The focus of The Garment’s pre-fall was pairing “something really sheer and something really heavy together,” the designer said. So a semi-sheer shirt is partnered with a gray tailored suit featuring a bow detail on the breast pocket, and that suit jacket is shown later with a wisp of a chiffon skirt, while double knits are layered over a thin knit turtleneck. This collection also brings together French- and Scandi-girl styles. Eskildsen has a house in France near Fondation Maeght, which she says reminds her a bit of Denmark’s Louisiana. Taking inspiration from the colors of southern France, she’s come up with a collection that has polish and practicality.
16 December 2024
The Garment’s Charlotte Eskildsen began this season’s design process in the medieval village of Haut-de-Cagnes, in the south of France, where she has a second home. “You get a feeling of something a little romantic there,” the designer said in a preview.That mood is evident in her collection, which possessed a certain lightness of touch. Eskildsen was inspired by vintage fabrics that she collected at local flea markets, which she translated into doily apron tops and scallop-hemmed separates. Meanwhile, the Mediterranean sea was a key inspiration for the color palette: the final look comprised a floaty blue dress, worn over trousers, that blew in the wind in the courtyard of Copenhagen’s Thorvaldsens Museum (the same style also came in white and lime green).While The Garment’s boyish minimalist staples were what first caught the eye of the Scandi fashion set, Eskildsen—whose co-founder Sophia Roe stepped down from the brand last season— leaned further into the feminine for spring 2025, not only via fluid dresses, but also the draped coats and sheer suiting. There was a levity about this collection, which would look just as good on vacation in France as on the cobbled streets of Copenhagen, that we could all use in our lives right now.
8 August 2024
“Elevated” and “more adult” is how Charlotte Eskildsen described her fall Garment collection. “We did more dresses, more for parties as well,” she added. It almosthadto have all these qualities given the location: the ballroom in Moltke’s Mansion (Moltkes Palæ), with chandeliers hanging over the parquet floors and elaborate plasterwork illustrating different trades (as the Association of Craftsmen in Copenhagen acquired the site in 1930). And it so happened that HRH Princess Isabella was in the audience. The themes of the wall decorations dovetailed nicely with Esklidsen’s decision to double down on quality and make. (The designer is now flying solo, as Sophia Roe, who was previously in charge of visuals, has decided to concentrate on other projects.)The Garment has always provided a contemporary take on classics, usually with a ’90s twist. Eskildsen also has an obsession with well-cut pants. This season, the aesthetic might be described as rich with touches that are both elegant (long organza gloves that fit over coat sleeves) and fun (chunky knits in fire-engine red and extra-pointy collars). A pant-less look nodded to the trend set by Miu Miu, and a biker jacket paired with a short bubble hem skirt touched lightly and nicely on the ’80s theme that’s been popping up. But the main focus here, said Eskildsen, was “to dare a little more.” All in all, that translated into upping the volume on a quiet luxury look.
31 January 2024
The Garment’s Charlotte Eskildsen and Sophia Roe presented their spring 2024 collection in a room in Thorvaldsen’s Museum featuring larger-than-life, and mostly male, sculptures, which made an interesting contrast with the pretty, delicate youthfulness of the offering. In an online exchange, Roe explained the concept was to rethink outdated ideas about the working woman and man; the linen closet was the starting point for the former. The opening look was a “napkin” top, the closing one made of “sheets.” There was also a “pillowcase dress” and a crocheted crop top and bra that might have been inspired by doilies. And there were bows on the back of flats, and heavy knit ones attached to lighter cotton dresses.The flip “masculine” side of all this was meant to be respresnted by “utility” details, but just read as tomboy, a recurring vibe at the brand. Low waisted, raw-edged black pants with a bow at the center back bridged the two “sides.”It might have been preferable not to have Skall Studio and The Garment back-to-back on the schedule, as they covered some similar ground, and this collection wound up feeling a bit lightweight.
9 August 2023
“Frozen orchid, lots of layering, skirt over pants, effortless elegance. Scandinavian Heritage. Oh, and ’90s—but always ’90s,” is how Sophia Roe summarized The Garment’s fall collection. Translation: strength and fragility (tailoring and transparency) in cold climes.The identity of the brand founded by Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen in 2020 is starting to gel, but the relationship, between dressy and preppy(ish) has yet to be achieved, as was demonstrated by the progression from the tomboy-ish black jacket, sweater, shirt, and gray pants that opened the show to the satiny buttercream yellow suit worn over a ruffled bra that followed it. This dance of opposites continued throughout the collection, with cozy looks contrasting with sheer ones, or a mix of the two in one outfit, like a pinstripe vest worn with a semi-transparent pink slit skirt that carried the faint scent of ’90s Prada. The abstract pattern on a burn-out dress brought Martine Sitbon to mind.Adding newness to the offering were elements of deconstruction. The inner lining was deliberately revealed on a well-cut pair of trousers, and a smart straight skirt had rear pockets at the front. On the dressier side, a halter-neck minidress with a cream rosette was a lovely iteration on the LBD.
1 February 2023
The Garment cofounders Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen departed from the story line they’ve been developing over the past few seasons—sort of sexy prep with a tomboy edge—with a spring 2023 collection that was both conventionally dressy and resort ready. The opening look was a fringed crochet bra top with a matching skirt. More dressed up, but not innovative, were a series of evening looks, dresses and two-pieces, with keyhole details, which perhaps can be explained by the fact that Roe was in Los Angeles when the collection was being developed. But really it’s the 1990s that continue to inspire the team, hence the predominance of knit slip dresses.In expanding their offering, Roe and Eskildsen diluted their message. Part of the allure of this brand is leveraging the influencers’ much admired personal style, meaning the breadth of the collection isn’t the draw, rather it’s how authentic it feels to the Scandi style they embody. “I like the combination of something feeling elevated and feminine with a casual masculine silhouette,” Roe said in a message. “It’s the way women dress here too, you will always find a Scandi woman trying to find the perfect harmony between those two.” Exemplifying that point were the designers’ own looks, when they came out for a bow; Eskildsen put a boyfriend blazer over something mini; Roe a trad silk blouse with black jeans and high-top sneakers.There were looks in the collection that made achieving a similar effect seem doable, like the pairing of generously cut pants (the way Katharine Hepburn preferred them) and a fringed bra. Worn with a low-waisted pin-striped straight skirt, that blouse Roe styled with denim looked subversively ironic, and updated the kind ofWorking Girlsexy secretary theme in a surprising and appealing way.
9 August 2022
The concept of Nordic chic has expanded beyond tonal minimalism to include color and print of late. It’s not like those elements were new to the region’s style, but they’ve come into focus with the success of brands like Ganni and Rave Review. Copenhagen street style has also contributed to the trend, as have a new generation of designers who, having grown up with clean-lined clothes, want to make their own way and do something different.“I think the fashion industry here went kind of mad,” said Charlotte Eskildsen, the seasoned designer behind Designers Remix, who two years ago teamed up with influencer Sophia Roe to create The Garment, a label with a more traditional take on Scandi style, which now looks new again. The pair, who have focused on tomboy tailoring and knitwear in earlier collections, reworked those preoccupations in neo-minimal and of-the-moment ways at their first runway presentation. The consistency of palette and aesthetic is deliberate, the idea is to evolve the brand so that pieces from different seasons can work together. “Sustainable for me is also keeping your clothes,” noted Eskildsen. The Garment carbon-offsets its production and strives to work with responsible fabrics.The show opened with a bang: a black cropped tailored jacket, a white shirt cut to the midriff, a gray knit skirt with spring 2022 Miu Miu proportions, black opaque tights, and vintage shoes. There were cropped school-boy jackets in tweed, silk blouses with bold shoulders, and pin-stripe pants cut to expose a bit of the hip-bone. For the most part it was dressy and easy in equal proportions, which speaks to the mood of the moment and the desire for ease with polish.There’s a familiarity to The Garment that’s comforting; it’s not vintage but, says Eskildsen, a kind of slow fashion. “It’s made from old souls, even though we have an age difference, Sophia and I. I actually was young in the 1990 and Sophia wasn’t born yet. I remember Kate Moss, Prada, and minimalism, so I never really got over it.”The Garment’s fall collection was undeniably Prada-esque, but something else was at work here, namely the reframing of the ’90s through the double lenses of nostalgia and anemoia (a longing for a time you didn’t know) and within the framework of Scandinavian minimalism. As thought provoking as that may be, fashion’s a material world, and those hip slung trousers and cropped tweed jackets are sure to speak directly to the heart and its desires.
2 February 2022