Theophilio (Q9330)
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Theophilio is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Theophilio |
Theophilio is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
It’s been a minute since Edvin Thompson staged a show in the city, so it was a shame that his buzzy return to New York Fashion Week today was clouded by a seriously late start time. If only one could say it took a minute—more like 76. The show started just over an hour and fifteen minutes after its allotted start time. It’s all good. Things happen. Yet it must be said that this is no way to stage a grand return—sometimes second impressions matter more than firsts.Backstage as folks waited in the lobby of the Freehand hotel—including Lil Nas X and June Ambrose—Thompson was all good vibes: “We’re late, but it’s going to be a great show for sure,” said the designer with a giggle.Thompson has been busy at work setting the foundation of his label. The designer said in a recent interview withTheBusiness of Fashionthat the label is breaking even for the first time as he aims to expand his distribution and supply chain. Lots of exciting developments somewhat hinging on the success of this show. He returned to the runway here after three seasons, but made a point to note that Theophilio didn’t go anywhere. “It feels like I never left,” he said. “People said ‘Theophilio is on hiatus,’ but I’ve been here, I was still working, still shaping my identity.”That was the theme here. Thompson titled his collection “Shaunie” after his childhood nickname, which he said he received from his mother’s side of the family. This lineup, he said, celebrated the “grander self.” Thompson can cut a flattering silhouette, and here he doubled down on the sparkle and sex appeal that made him one to watch when he broke into the scene just a couple of years ago. He offered colorful silk separates covered in clusters of tonal sequins, menswear styles with scattered peekaboo grommets, and cool graffiti printed slips and micro dresses. “I used to shy away from loud prints and bold colors when I started in fashion because I wasn’t so comfortable with my sexuality in that way,” he said, “I felt that if I was bright I would attract attention to myself, but leaning into the discomfort, into who you are, that’s growth.”Thompson’s spirit is in the right place. Tonight he had a room full of good will, of people happy to wait to see his work and support him. That kind of community is hard to come by, let alone create this early on. One would have hoped to see more evolution in his output and a little more finesse after his time in stealth mode.
This was a show of Theophilio staples, some more effective than others. But as Thompson very well said, discomfort leads to growth. Perhaps next season he’ll dare to draw outside the lines.
10 September 2024
“No more vanity,” declared Theophilio’s Edvin Thompson at a preview of his spring 2024 collection.Not in reference to his sultry spring lineup. Not speaking of celebrities he’s been busy outfitting in custom looks of late, including Victoria Monet, Asake, and Ice Spice. But in the way he’s been running his business. “I’ve been taking the time to make sure the foundation is strong,” Thompson said. “I want to make sure that the attention we’ve been getting builds us up for more than just that.”Theophilio enjoyed a swift rise. Thompson became a darling of the New York fashion scene quickly, winning the CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year Award in 2021, hosting a much-talked about show last September, and partnering with Amazon Luxury Stores for an exclusive capsule collection late last year. Just last week, he was one of the two designers that Naomi Campbell tapped to work with her on her PrettyLittleThing collection. All of these happenings certainly raise a designer’s profile, but do they all lead to a solid business?Yes and no. “Despite what it’s looked like, this has been an extremely hard year for us,” said Thompson, who skipped the fall 2023 season altogether. He’s back for spring and says he wants to “take this moment to drive the DTC business and make the brand less about an Instagram moment.” This season’s lineup featured his usual loose gauge knits in alluring new skin-baring cuts, plus a run of cool Y2K lurex denim separates, and his signature snakeskin embossed fabrics in tailored silhouettes cut in vibrant colorways. The designer’s draped hooded knit gowns were striking and resort-ready—made for both the red carpet and the beach—and his tailoring was sharp as ever.“We’re evolving to a sort of destination brand,” Thompson said, his head fully in the game. “So where will we go next?”
12 September 2023
The energy at the Theophilio show was high this afternoon. Edvin Thompson won the CFDA American Emerging Designer of the Year Award late last year and has become one of the buzziest names in New York over the past couple of seasons. This was only his second runway show at New York Fashion Week, but with a tightly edited and focused collection loaded with budding brand signatures (and yes, thebudin budding is also a nod to the prerolled joints left on the seats for every guest), Thompson confirmed that for him there is no such thing as a sophomore slump.This spring offering was grounded in nostalgia, a common denominator for young designers these days, but rather than viewing Instagram archives, Thompson looked at his personal story. Highly autobiographical, the collection offered his own take on the Y2K craze he grew up surrounded by, but by way of the eyes of his immigrant experience. “I really wanted to talk about the urban areas that I’ve lived in,” Thompson said backstage, still buzzing with energy after the show. “From New York to Atlanta or Jersey, I really wanted to cater to that experience,” he added in reference to the “I heart TP” motifs on his tees and the sequined graffiti prints he included on fitted trousers, tank tops, minidresses, and skirts, the latter two worn by Precious Lee and Adut Akech, respectively.“Looking at the late ’90s and early 2000s, Tom Ford really inspired me,” Thompson said. “His clothing was just so comfortable, and I think sexy is comfortable. And I really wanted to champion that nostalgia in this collection.” With silk button-downs and dresses, bedazzled baby tees and tank tops, slinky lamé dresses, and tailoring (that was just the right amount of oversized) layered over a Lurex mesh tank top or silk shirting, the Jamaican-born designer found a perfectly suitable level of comfortably sultry. The Ford references were overt, particularly in the silk shirting and the TP circular logo closures holding sequined button-downs together. Turns out Ford was the perfect reference to pair with Thompson’s nonchalant sensibility. It was refreshing to hear a young designer discuss his references proudly.Thompson said he decided to challenge himself with this collection. He wanted to make his guy feel sexy and provide comfort to the woman who wears his clothes.
Enter snakeskin-print boxer briefs, Lurex tank tops, and deftly cut breezy tailoring, the latter of which he sees both his male and female customers pulling off—it was inspired by photos of his parents’ wedding. By looking for both comfort and sexiness, he pushed himself to expand his assortment into an array of highly wearable pieces. He also explored TP logo repeats and buckles. Thompson has a good eye for building commercial signatures that feel unique to his brand; that will serve him well as he moves forward. He also nodded at J’Ouvert, the West Indian carnival celebration, with intricate headpieces and a bikini top.“There’s a big trend of Y2K fashion right now, but I think it’s also because that time was full of creatives, and I’m just happy to be part of that coming back,” he said. “It’s New York bringing that back; that energy has to be lasting and filling.” The energy at today’s show certainly was.
14 September 2022
The invite for Edvin Thompson’s Theophilio show was a makeshift Air Jamaica plane ticket, a reminder of the Brooklyn-based, Jamaican-born designer’s heritage and consistent inspiration. He’s embraced his roots through Rastafarian motifs and crochet knits in the past, but Thompson described spring 2022 as his most confident, unabashed celebration of Jamaica’s spirit and iconography. Several looks came in the red, green, black, and yellow stripes of the Rastafari flag, but the silhouettes were quintessentially New York: stretchy, body-skimming, and confidence-raising. One of many catsuits came in the graphic stripe, and while it looked audaciously sexy from afar, a closer look revealed that the fabric had a comforting, velvety burnout texture.Tie-dyed knit catsuits, graphic crochet slips, and curve-hugging mesh dresses struck a similar balance. Backstage after the show, when models typically race to get back in their own clothes and head for the exit, Thompson’s were hanging out and taking selfies, in no rush to strip off their looks. A decade ago, a buzzy new designer might have subjected his models to uncompromising, body-contorting gowns in the name of a vision. Thompson and his emerging designer peers care just as much, if not more, about how their clothes will make people feel.At a preview earlier this week, a small handful of looks were available to see up close, mostly the oversize denim jackets, grommeted jeans, and Rasta-striped separates. Thompson’s publicist vaguely explained that only the ready-to-wear was included in the preview, but it was unclear where that left the rest of this collection. As it turns out, everything else in the show will be made-to-order, which makes sense for the body stockings and slinky gowns. You’d want a perfect fit in the sunset-y striped catsuit, which scooped so low in the back that it necessitated a matching logo thong.
11 September 2021