Toni Maticevski (Q9364)
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Toni Maticevski is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Toni Maticevski |
Toni Maticevski is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Having pulled off a string of red-carpet coups recently, Toni Maticevski can hardly be faulted for making his case as an awards-show designer. After all, Oscar night is less than a month away. Maticevski's flair for drama was on display—he likes his fabrics shiny and his embellishments shinier—but a few of the looks could have benefited from a bit more restraint. He was at his best when he kept it simple.The silk tulle and organza gowns in dove gray that opened the show were sweet and chic; with their hair slicked back in dressy ballerina chignons, the models looked like a pair of Degas dancers out for a night on the town. The multilayered polka-dot evening dresses in silk chiffon would look great on any number of the latest crop of barely twentysomething starlets.Before the show, Maticevski mentioned he was working on "slicing up and segmenting the body," and that intention was clear in the visual slashes made by unflattering strips and swags of fabric and in the peacock-feather-festooned bras that topped a few busy ensembles. Still, there were interesting experiments in layering and ornamentation here, and in another season or two—maybe by the time the Golden Globes roll around again—Maticevski will likely have worked out the kinks.
10 February 2010
"I have been working on pretty, floaty, feminine for so long," said Australian designer Toni Maticevski, who played Edward Scissorhands in his sophomore New York effort, slashing away at conventional notions of beauty and proportion. "I felt I needed to add a bit more severity and grit."You could see echoes of thirties Hollywood in the long, sinuous lines and the embroidered balloon sleeves. But the fragile allure of these details was willfully sabotaged: Underneath a delicate ivory bias gown with beaded blossoms, for example, was a bondage-style bathing suit.Intent on exploring the darker facets of his talent, Maticevski refused to give the audience what it expected. A simple black cocktail dress with a twisted neckline stood out, as did a minidress dripping with antique jet. But the choreography—with models aggressively (and strangely) clutching at their hips—was bound to be jarring for viewers who, after last season, came expecting a garden party. And the padded, Popsicle-colored puffer gowns brought ¿freak legend¿ Leigh Bowery to mind. Maticevski, explaining these last as ¿blow ups¿ of the thirties bias look, remained defiant: ¿You either love them or you hate them,¿ he said. For many in the audience, you suspected, it was a case of the latter.
2 February 2007
Aussie Toni Maticevski arrived at the UPS Hub without a great deal of fanfare, but left with lots of new friends. He showed an appealing, delicate collection featuring trapeze shapes and diaphanous fabrics. "I wanted to explore textures and techniques, and dimensionality rather than make flat clothes," he said backstage. Organza and voile were some of the fabrics Maticevski used to give volume to sixties A-line shapes. In contrast, silk satin was draped and knotted to liquid effect.The show was uneven—a blouse with Capulet sleeves seemed incongruous, as did a lone menswear look, paraded barefoot no less—but there was promise here. The eveningwear in particular was winning, especially a silk and tulle gown that looked as light as a cloud.
7 September 2006